Ibanez offers electric guitars, bass guitars, acoustic guitars, effect and pedals, amps, plus guitar accessories like tuners, straps and picks. It needs 1.35 inches (35mm) of cavity depth. Or, you can eaily modify the cavity depth as shown with the Jackson DK-2 installation below. The new (May 2018) optional Aux boards (Aux-TT, Aux-JS, Aux-2) each add $10 to the Stealth PRO kit price IF you order one INSTEAD of the normal controls and wire harness. If i go with 5/8' depth (16mm) im roughly looking at 10 to 12mm above the body counting the frets. Standard HSH pickup route with electronics cavity on top, fits Original Edge tremolos. Neck screw holes have not been drilled and neck pocket contour has not been shaped. Electronics cavity to input jack hole has been drilled. The body pictured is the body you will receive. Neck pocket depth: 18.9 mm. Neck pocket width 57.83 mm. The Ibanez ASF180 is a fully hollow body version of the AS200 semi-hollow body guitar we've admired and loved since 1977. The AS200, as mentioned in the AR2619 hands-on-report here began as the #2630 semi-hollow body which in 1979 was renamed the AS200.
- Ibanez Cavity Depth Bass
- Ibanez Cavity Depth Scale
- Ibanez Cavity Depth Definition
- Ibanez Cavity Depth Chart
Hi there! I wanted to build another guitar but I wanted something a little different from all the kit guitars. So, I put my own kit together and it had to be inexpensive.
I found the body on E-Bay for only $10.50 plus $16.00 shipping, and it is not to bad. It's made of popular and it was made sometime in the 80's. When I got it the body it did look like it was made back then!
The neck is from a Starcaster, costing $15.00 with the tuners. I found a set of Ibanez pickups for $9.50. The pots are new 500k numbers with a new cap and the switch is from a Les Paul. The guy I got them from gave me four pots, two switches, two caps and four different color switch caps all for around $20.00.
When I first started to get all the parts together I was going to install a Fender style trem bridge, but I really wanted to try the wraparound style. So now begins the saga! As you can see in the photos I fist started by filling in all the holes that were not going to be used. This wasn't to bad to do. I used a power saw to cut the basic shape and the used a lot of sandpaper to get the shape down to where it fit tight. I don't own a router so I had to fill the trem holes in with two piece of wood.
I did find out the most people that do this use a router to rout out the hole so you can use one piece of wood. After I did all that I put the neck in place and then measured for the new bridge. Boy I got say this is the first time I tried to do anything like this I must have taken measurements about a 101 times before I drilled the holes. Call it beginners luck because I got it spot on! Wow that was a relief. I was excited to hear what it would sound like, so I installed some pickups from a Saga kit I built and used them just to try everything out.
So just like the Saga kits I put the guitar together before painting it or doing anything else. I am glad that I did because just like other builds I found all kinds of little things that needed to be done like the neck adjustment and getting the bridge set up and filling the nut down. After all that I played it for about 3 weeks, then I took it apart and started on the painting.
I started with the neck. There is a paint store next to where I work, and they made some custom stain for the neck. I wanted something close to the Fender neck amber but not the exact color because I wanted it to be my own! So, being a printer, I started to look through my PMS color charts and found a color I liked and took that over to the paint store. They matched it up with no problem. The other thing I did to the neck before staining it was to sand off the Starcaster decal and I also rounded off all the edges of the headstock to give it a softer look. Once the stain was on I put on about a half a can of gloss lacquer on it. If there is one thing I learned from the other two guitars I built is don't be afraid to put some paint on because it beats sanding through. I let the neck dry for the next three weeks while I started on the body.
Ibanez Cavity Depth Bass
Now this is where things went from bad to worse. Remember I told you that the body was made in the 80's? Well there was something in the wood that just didn't wouldn't to go away. I don't know what it was but it caused me to waste a lot of paint before I found a way to seal it. I tried all kind of ways to seal it but nothing was working. Every time I though I had it I would spry the body and the paint would wrinkle up or it would not dry. I almost gave up so I let it set for a day or two -- enough time for me to cool down. I went back to the paint store to ask them if they had any thing that would seal off this body. They recommended a shellac-based primer. That did the trick and I had no more problems with the paint. (Note: Shellac is a good primer for just about any finish. I use it for all of my guitars - Ed.)
Because I live in Florida I had to wait for a good day to paint because of the humidity. Once the weather was good I sprayed the body with a dark blue color. It has some small flakes in it but I wanted something more, so I used Dupli-Color clear Effex (available at AutoZone) and WOW! You should see this body! It came out so cool looking!
One of the things I like about it is comes in a spray can and you can use it over any color. The other thing I like about it is you can use a little or a lot. The more you put on the more flake there is. It’s cool too because it makes the paint change colors in different lighting. What I did was I put about 3 to 4 coats of clear on then put the Effex on then I put on more clear coat. That way it gives it a lot of depth. 3D kind of stuff. I use to do stuff like that when I would paint cars.
The only bad thing in this was where I sealed up the back trem route. You can now see where I made the fill, but at least it's on the back. The next time we have a good weather week here I may try to fix it. After letting the body dry for a week I started to put it all back together. I chose not to color sand it till after I put it together just in case I had any other problems with it, and again was I glad I did just that. After putting it back together nothing was the same. I had to reset everything. The neck the bridge were not lining up. The only thing I could figure out was I had striped the body five times and that somehow changed the wood. I've had it together for two weeks and nothing has changed. I had to counter sink the bridge studs down into the body to get the string action low.
Ibanez Cavity Depth Scale
Well, as you can see the guitar came out looking cool . After all the hard work I think I got what I was after. It's a little different and the sound of this guitar is awesome. The Ibanez pickups sound great. I don't know the make of the body but to me looks like a cross between a Ibanez and a Kramer. The only thing I might change is to add a set of chrome pickup rings and a nice set of zebra pickups.
I spent around $200 for this guitar not counting labor or looking on eBay! I did this just to see if it was possible to build a killer guitar with little money. Everything except for the strings were bought off eBay.
Again I love the way it looks and sounds I don't know if I will ever buy another store bought guitar again! I love to build them because I can't build hot rods anymore so this is the next best thing.
I am calling this guitar Eagle Blues 2. If anyone would like to you can always email me at eagleblues@cox.net.
Ibanez Cavity Depth Definition
I would like to hear from other who share a love and passion for guitars and guitar building. Thanks again to GuitarAttack for the best web site for guitarists everywhere!
Ibanez Cavity Depth Chart
Thanks, Eddie...killer paint job and story!